Teepee poles down the center of a gilded salon made the type of incongruous first impression that doesn’t usually end well. The show’s title, Indian Summer, was a poor choice of double entendre. The collection text indicating that Native American culture would be “observed from a fantasized and respectful perspective” did not exactly instill confidence. The feather planted into the back of each hairstyle was a reminder from start to finish that, while a designer is free to borrow, some codes are more sensitive than others. How did Zuhair Murad think he could take on this theme without directly putting himself in the line of fire? “For haute couture, it was risky, yes. But I said to myself, I want to go beyond my limits this time; I want to do a challenge,” he explained backstage. “Most of the time, I am inspired by the past, and this is a kind of an homage and respect to the people who left us a very beautiful heritage of art, craftsmanship, and design.”
This is where some might point out that Murad could have considered engaging living artisans to help bring his interpretative vision to life with greater authenticity. Instead, symbols and motifs belonging to what the collection text referred to as “ancient tribes” were reconceived by his studio into glistening embroideries on second-skin gowns. The opening grouping in all-white beading and feathers made clear that Murad was putting aesthetic distance between his designs and his source material. He used the teepee shape as silhouette inspiration, creating strong A-line shapes with capes and skirts that applied the theme to more intriguing effect than a strapless red gown with teepees rendered in jacquard. But then white-on-black Aztec-esque motifs seemed so confident in expression and meticulous in execution that Murad should be grateful to his own studio for upholding a high standard of decoration.
On the balance, there were enough striking looks among the mix for clients to sidestep the theme should they be concerned about people’s reactions. Frankly, it’s hard to imagine some of Murad’s leading ladies embracing the Native American motifs on the red carpet, where every decision is now more loaded than ever. “The clients today believe in my taste, and they tell me they trust me and will follow me,” Murad insisted. Fair enough; but just because he has taken the risk doesn’t mean they will.
