There are two different models, the JL is the newest. They use different carbon filters if converting to non-exhaust (in room circulation). So you can't order filters through mfg website until you have product s/n in hand so they can sell correct carbon filter. The actual hood width is 29.5", which matches the template. There should be a slight gap on either side. Mine will be tighter than the 2/5" recommended, more like .25 ". Picture of carbon filter installed prior to install. It will be a pain after as with a 25" gap between stove top & hood and filters being recessed, the stove will need to be removed every time filters need changed unless you think it possible to lay on the stove upside down and manuever within a 25" gap.🤔Download and print the latest online version of the manual before doing anything else! The packaged one is likely obsolete based on package date.Pictures in product description do not show location of power cord (right side). Ordered a plug to fill previous power hole on left side (once again Amazon). Templates go on with print side against the wood. If not you get outlet hole on wrong side. I cut a 1.5" hole centered for new power cord (measure 2x cut once). The part about bending over excess on template is for top template. Remember there is an extra gap on template edging beyond the printed line take into consideration.The directions only indicate the weight as "heavy" (it is actually 59 lbs and change per TS). Better make sure your cabinet supports are screwed into studs and not just drywall anchors, so your significant other does not end up wearing it, if not I hope your job is good enough to cover alimony & child support 😉. There is no way to use the wall keyholes as designed for a under cabinet install, but you can use the top ones (a must & first point of connection). The packaged manual directed screwing into drywall before top. The new version does a 180.You have to remove stove/oven to install (obviously)& space is a premium so getting holes properly aligned is critical to success. Use the template as a rough only, then measure the crud out of it every which way but loose twice over. Take into account trim and cabinet offsets for reference measurements if not you will pay for it.One support person said some people vent into cabinet (when using carbon filter kit and not exhausting through a wall) and the drawing only shows hole in cabinet bottom, not top. At 500 cfm and nowhere to go expect back pressure, overheated motor, and doors flopping like your cabinet is haunted, not to mention a mini sauna from vented clean steam into cabinet, unless the carbon filter blocks "all" moisture and fills drip pan. Black mold in a cabinet would not be fun. If there is a gap between ceiling and cabinet top, best to cut a hole directly above the first.A 8" hole will not likely be enough for bottom hole if using the keyhole slide method in top ideally 8.5 or slightly more"). They need to relocate exhaust vent in design slightly to compensate for the offsets in my humble opinion. Why you ask? Well with an 8" hole you have exactly .25" clearance between duct and hole (when it is not collapsed) add width of compressed duct plus the 1/2" offset (1/4 all around) to slide top from keyhole to slot (final resting place) and you have a preinstalled duct ramming into a cabinet instead of through a hole with 8"! Bending the duct to try forcing it in is asking for damage to it. Duct must be installed before hood goes up depending on whether your entire cabinet bottom is flush or if you have standoff supports with gap in middle see picture. If there is a gap, there will be no room to attach ring to duct after installing hood. The alternative to a larger hole might be to set up some temporary support to rest the hood on and have someone hold in place while someone else sinks screws into all the predrilled/anchored holes. Picture attached of one concept I may use if run into a duct clearance issue. This is where keeping all that scrape lumber around pays off and you can tell your wife, I told you so. New lumber is not cheap. Also due to weight and only 4 wood screws on top, you are going to want to use the beveled washers on top to disperse the weight to a larger area than screw head. Well because the beveled washers provided are the same size as keyhole or a smidge bigger, when raising the hood over preinserted screws it is unlikely they will drop through keyhole in order to allow sliding but hey maybe not. Just saying pre-fit the beveled washers before getting to far in as it would be irritating to raise it up and not have the washers drop through. You may need to buy your own or plan to insert screws and beveled washers while someone holds up 59lbs who keeps saying hurry up I can't hold much longer then drops it with 2 screws in, ripping out the bottom of your cabinet ouch. The wood screws are designed for the washers so even though no direction in manual provided how to use them, they better be on bottom side of hood when your done.(Think"everything" through before you grab the first tool or pencil or end up measuring everything 4x). Instead of buying an 8" flange to come down from top hole, I bought a 8" louvered & screened vent to point exhaust in direction of my choosing. It is the tightest fit imaginable to get the provided ducting over it, but it can be done and avoids the cost of a flange & is so tight I won't need a band. See pictures ( Amazon is your friend here - struck out at Lowes).Getting top hole aligned with bottom hole is tricky. Take into account the inside cabinet wall side thickness when measuring bottom edge to align top hole as bottom hole won't have the extra material. My top hole kisses (lip locks) the cabinet support at the top. Drill a small test hole from bottom to check saw alignment from top down to make sure you don't cut through a support ledge. You may need to offset slightly to avoid that screw-up.This hood may sit a lot lower than what it replaces. Measure from cab bottom to stove, subtract 10, should be 24-36, if not reconsider your purchase. Still waiting on my hole saw..first one defective arbor pins would not align with saw sent back. Second one discounted "like new" was missing arbor and bit all together. So now after research the correct arbor on order via Amazon from same German mfg. so it should fit. I trust German QC more than some others and leave it at that.Hope you found humor in this review but the installation will be anything but funny if you do not spend the time to triple check centered spacing side to side, hole spacing to back wall and spacing between holes. Wear gloves and use care to prevent dings and scratches, ie don't throw any tools at it while cussing. 😉