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The Skincare Bible: Your essential guide to radiant, clear skin at any age from an expert dermatologist Kindle Edition
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For anyone who loves straight-talking, practical advice on skincare, this book is the perfect, beautiful gift.
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We all know that taking good care of our skin is the key to any effective health and beauty regime. But with so much conflicting information, the path to healthy skin can seem far from clear.
Dr Anjali Mahto is one of the UK's leading consultant dermatologists. Equipped with years of expertise, she sets out to cut through the noise and distinguish the nuggets from the nonsense! Tackling common complaints such as acne, dryness, rosacea and aging, The Skincare Bible is your definitive companion to your body's biggest organ.
Clear, concise and packed full of tips on the best products and routines, it will help you discover what works for you and find confidence in your own skin.
_________________
'I now feel safe in the knowledge that I'm armed with the latest science-backed information about how to care for my skin' Chloe Brotheridge, author of The Anxiety Solution
'A refreshing, fad-free guide to glowing skin. A must-read for anyone struggling with their skin health' Dr Megan Rossi, author of Eat Yourself Health
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherPenguin
- Publication dateApril 5, 2018
- File size1944 KB
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About the Author
Dr Anjali Mahto is a consultant dermatologist who has worked in both the NHS and private clinics. She writes regularly for the Huffington Post and has featured extensively in popular media and women's magazines, including Guardian, Good Housekeeping, Sky News, Get the Gloss and Refinery 29. She is a spokesperson for the British Skin Foundation and has been an in-house advisor for Vichy UK and Ireland, part of L'Oreal.
@DrAnjaliMahto
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
The Skincare Bible
No-Nonsense Guide to Having Great Skin
By Anjali MahtoPenguin Random House
Copyright © 2018 Dr Anjali MahtoAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-241-30910-0
Contents
Introduction, 1,1. A Crash Course in Skin, 5,
2. Regular Skincare, 21,
3. Skincare Regimes, 63,
4. Hormones, 73,
5. Specific Skin Concerns, 91,
6. Lifestyle, 181,
7. Anti-ageing Treatments, 215,
8. Moles and Skin Cancer, 263,
9. Finding a Dermatologist, 283,
Some Final Thoughts, 293,
Acknowledgements, 295,
CHAPTER 1
A CRASH COURSE IN SKIN
It's impossible to understand skincare without first understanding a bit about the skin and how it works. In this chapter, I'm going to try to distil the basics from what is quite elaborate science to give you everything you need to know.
Human skin is a complex biological organ straddling the gap between beauty, health and disease. Rightly or wrongly, good skin, particularly of the face, has long been considered a marker of attractiveness. It is closely linked not just to the visual aesthetic, but also to self-esteem, confidence and how we view ourselves.
Skin, however, is more than just skin-deep. Our skin has a number of important physiological roles in maintaining health; it provides a physical and biochemical barrier to the outside world, simultaneously protecting us from ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun, preventing water loss and blocking the entry of unwanted microbes and chemicals. Cells of the immune system are ubiquitous in the skin, preventing infection. Body temperature is regulated by blood vessels in the skin. Skin is a vital sensory organ and site of vitamin D production. We can become so obsessed with making our skin look good that we forget to thank it for all the amazing things it does for us every day.
SKIN STRUCTURE
To understand exactly how beauty products work, why common skin problems occur and what happens to our skin as it ages, it is important to have a basic understanding of normal skin structure and constituent components.
The skin has two main parts: the upper epidermis and the lower dermis. These together sit on top of a layer of fat and connective tissue that gives the skin its support. The outermost layer of the skin – the upper part of the epidermis – is known as the stratum corneum. This is made up of dead skin cells that are integral to the skin's function as a barrier. Skin cells turn over approximately every twenty-eight days, with cells from the upper layers being continually shed and replaced by cells from deeper layers.
The epidermis
The epidermis is the outermost part of the skin, the bit that gets up close and personal with the outside world. To do its job successfully as the first line of defence, it has four main cell types, each with its own important role to play.
a) Keratinocytes
The main cell in the epidermis, keratinocytes produce the protein keratin, which provides the skin with physical protection and waterproofing. You may already be familiar with keratin as it's also the main component of hair and nails, and can also be an ingredient in some personal-care products.
b) Melanocytes
These cells produce the pigment melanin, which gives our skin its colour and protects us against UV light from the sun.
c) Langerhans cells
Langerhans cells are part of the immune system and are ready to seek and destroy any microbes that may invade the skin.
d) Merkel cells
These sensory cells are found deep in the epidermis, and provide us with the sensation of touch.
The dermis
The dermis sits below the epidermis. It is often divided into two layers: the upper 'papillary' dermis and the lower 'reticular' dermis. The papillary dermis is rich in nerve endings whilst the reticular dermis provides the skin with its structural support and elasticity, and is rich in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. The beauty industry and anti-ageing market has taken much interest in these molecules, and as the terms are often thrown about in writing and talk on skincare, they definitely warrant a closer look.
a) Collagen
Collagen is one of the most abundant proteins in the body. It forms a scaffold that gives strength, rigidity and support to the skin. There are at least sixteen different types of collagen in the skin, although 80 to 90 per cent of human collagen is of types 1, 2 and 3. Gram for gram, collagen is stronger than steel.
b) Elastin
Elastin is another connective tissue protein found in skin. As its name suggests, elastin gives skin its elasticity; indeed, its properties are often compared to those of elastic bands: it allows skin to resume its original shape after being stretched, pinched or poked.
c) Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid belongs to a group of compounds known as glycosaminoglycans, and also forms part of the skin's framework. It is essentially a very large sugar molecule with a gel-like consistency. Hyaluronic acid has a unique capacity to bind over 1,000 times its own weight in water. Its purpose in skin is to keep it soft, plump and hydrated. Hyaluronic acid is a popular constituent in skincare due to its moisturizing properties; it can also be injected into, or under, the skin in the form of dermal fillers.
SKIN AGEING
The process of getting older outwardly can be seen in the skin before any other organ of the body. Changes are visible to us and to those around us and growing old cannot be hidden, unlike many other medical issues. We are living longer than ever before and, for some people, the natural changes associated with skin ageing can be seen as undesirable or even unhealthy. The anti-ageing market continues to grow in lockstep with this, often in response to (but also frequently driving) exactly these kinds of concern.
The science behind skin ageing
As skin ages, there is a reduction in both the number and size of skin cells. It functions less effectively as a protective barrier, temperature regulation is less efficient and there is a decline in the production of sweat, sebum (oil) and vitamin D. The skin itself becomes increasingly thin over time due to a steady reduction in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (it is commonly quoted that collagen production in the skin falls by 1 per cent each year after the age of twenty). Cells turn over less quickly and wound healing is relatively impaired.
To the external observer, these changes become apparent as dry skin, fine lines, deep furrows and wrinkles. Skin starts to sag as it loses its support and textural changes appear. Broken blood vessels, thread veins and uneven skin pigmentation become more prominent. Frighteningly, some of these changes can set in as early as your late twenties or early thirties. Aesthetics aside, ageing also affects the skin's immune response and certain skin cancers become more common as we get older.
WHAT CAUSES SKIN AGEING?
Skin ageing occurs for a variety of reasons; some of these are under our control (extrinsic factors) whilst others are not (intrinsic factors). Let's look at these in more detail.
Intrinsic ageing
Intrinsic, or 'chronological', skin ageing is inevitable and, with our current understanding, cannot be prevented in practice; it happens to all of us and is largely genetically determined. If your parents aged well, the chances are good that you will also. We have learned much about the mechanisms of ageing in recent years and a number of underlying causes have been hypothesized. These include:
a) Telomere shortening
Our DNA is tightly packaged into thread-like structures called chromosomes. Telomeres are specialized regions found at the ends of chromosomes and are analogous to the plastic tips found at the ends of shoelaces. Telomeres prevent the ends of the chromosomes fraying or sticking to one another. Each time a cell divides, its telomeres get shorter, and when they get too short, the cell is no longer able to divide; it consequently becomes inactive or dies. This process of telomere shortening has been linked to skin ageing as well as certain human diseases. Although there is a lot of ongoing research in this area, we don't yet understand telomeres well enough to develop a safe cure for telomere shortening.
b) Mitochondrial damage
Mitochondria are the tiny 'powerhouses' inside human cells, converting oxygen and nutrients into the chemical energy that powers them. Energy production generates free radicals, harmful molecules which have the ability to damage the cell itself over time and if allowed to accumulate. The processes by which mitochondria generate energy, therefore, also have the ability to damage it, rendering cells past their 'sell-by' date.
c) Hormonal changes
Hormonal changes, particularly in women, are also thought to contribute to intrinsic skin ageing. Women are more vulnerable to hormonally induced ageing than men due to the more complex hormonal patterns that occur not just over the course of their monthly cycles, but also during their lifetime as a whole. After the menopause, levels of the hormone oestrogen decline. This has been linked to a loss of skin elasticity, reduced hydration and reduced water-binding capacity. Skin changes are noticeably significant after the menopause.
Extrinsic ageing
Now, extrinsic factors are the ones we have the ability to control or change. Extrinsic ageing occurs against the background of intrinsic ageing. And whilst I love basking in the summer heat, UVA and UVB rays in sunlight are the biggest culprits implicated in the skin's extrinsic ageing process. Sunlight also contains other wavelengths of light, including infrared-A and high-energy visible light, and recent data suggests that these may also have a lesser role to play. So, if you want to keep your youthful good looks, sun protection is an absolute must.
To put all this into perspective, the effects of sunlight are thought to contribute a whopping 80 to 90 per cent of the visible signs associated with ageing. These include wrinkles, pigmentation, sunspots and reduced skin elasticity. Compare the skin on your buttocks or upper inner forearms to the skin on your face or hands. The latter are subject to chronic sun exposure and are much more likely than the former two sites to show, with age, features such as wrinkles or pigmentation. Scientific research on sets of identical twins confirms that the twin with more sun exposure shows features of skin ageing much earlier. As they are genetically identical, we can be confident that the difference was due to the environmental factor: the sun exposure.
So let's look at ultraviolet light in a bit more detail, seeing as it's the cause of many of our ageing woes. UVA is the predominant ray and the ratio of UVA to UVB rays is on average 20:1. This may come as a surprise, but UVA has the ability to penetrate clouds and window glass, causing damage to the skin. This is something to think about if you spend a lot of time driving or near windows.
The proportion of UVA reaching the earth's surface is relatively constant throughout the year, but due to environmental factors such as cloud cover, the proportion of UVB reaching the earth's surface peaks in the summer months. In the UK, due to our latitude, there is therefore very little UVB in the winter months.
The different types of UV light interact with our skin at different depths. UVB rays, with a shorter wavelength than UVA, mostly penetrate the upper skin layers or epidermis; it is UVB that primarily causes skin reddening and sunburn. UVA rays have the ability to penetrate the skin more deeply, affecting the lower dermal layers, but do not significantly contribute to redness and sunburn. UVA has long been considered both the ageing and tanning ray. An easy way to remember this is UV A for ageing; UV B for burning. Both ultimately damage your skin, and so not too surprisingly we need protection against both.
HOW DOES UV LIGHT FROM THE SUN CAUSE SKIN AGEING?
UV light causes damage to the skin via a number of molecular mechanisms. We still have a lot to learn in this field but research is providing more answers and therefore driving our skincare choices.
About 50 per cent of UV damage is from its causing the formation of free radicals, which are harmful to skin cells. The rest of the damage is from UV light causing direct cell injury and DNA damage. UV light has been shown to activate enzymes known as matrix metalloproteinases; these break down collagen and damage the skin's support structure, making it sag or deepening wrinkles. These enzymes also have the ability to prevent new collagen production. What you will see in the mirror as a result of these processes is sagging, wrinkles and thin, inelastic skin – the kinds of things we typically associate with ageing. Research also suggests that UV light causes accumulation of a protein known as progerin. This can limit the lifespan of skin cells and their ability to regenerate; the skin is therefore less effective in protecting us.
None of these spell good news for our skin. However, it is within our control to limit the amount of UV light to which our skin is exposed. Preventing damage is often more cost-effective than treatments trying to reverse the visible signs of ageing. If we think about it in these terms, why spend thousands of pounds undergoing invasive procedures to correct skin damage when you could spend under £20 on sunscreen to prevent the damage in the first place? In this day and age, focus should always be on preventative healthcare where possible.
There are factors other than sunshine that also contribute to external ageing to a lesser degree. These include smoking, diet and pollution. Collectively, these non-genetic, environmental factors are sometimes referred to as the 'exposome', and are discussed later in the book in chapter 6, 'Lifestyle'.
SKIN OF COLOUR
There are some important differences in skin of colour or ethnic skin. The pigment, melanin, which gives our skin its colour is present in higher quantities in those with dark skin. Melanin absorbs UV light and has the ability to block free radical damage. Darker skin is therefore relatively more protected from sun damage and ageing. Research suggests that black skin has a natural sun protection factor (SPF) of 13.4 compared to white skin, which is about 3.4.
Skin of colour develops problems with pigmentation more readily than white skin types. Inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, eczema and psoriasis can often leave dark staining in the skin that can often persist for months. This is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
The onset of wrinkles, skin laxity and sagging is less common in dark skin when compared to an age equivalent individual of white skin. Despite this, even dark skin types are vulnerable to sun damage, just not to the same degree. Prolonged, cumulative sun exposure, however, will still lead to the signs we associate with ageing skin so those with dark skin types should also be practising preventative measures.
CHAPTER 2REGULAR SKINCARE
One thing that often comes up during my skin consultations is the confusion that lies around a regular skincare routine. Much of what we initially learn is passed down to us or simply observed behaviour we imitate from the older females in our lives. As we age, much of our advice is taken from popular culture, magazines and friends. Advice can often be conflicting, leaving you more baffled about the basics than before you started.
And that's just a problem for the women. Men often get taught even less about their basic skincare routine. There have been numerous situations in my clinic where I have had to explain, step-by-step, how to use a face wash or moisturizer to a teenage boy. This is through no fault of their own, but simply that no one has ever shown them how to do it.
Women can often fall into two camps when it comes to skincare. The first are guilty of having the same routine over the years despite seasonal or major life changes. There is a reluctance to switch it up and explore new ways of achieving the same end. The other gang is the skincare junkies – they love new beauty fads, products and complex, layering routines borrowed from our Korean cousins. Probably the best approach is somewhere in between, as all most of us want is an effective skincare routine that ideally takes the least amount of time to apply. We are a time-poor generation looking for instant results.
CLEANSING
A good cleansing routine is vital for keeping your skin healthy and preventing disease. It is worthwhile to get into good habits from an early age.
One of the main functions of skin is to act as a barrier to the outside world. The skin's barrier function can easily be disrupted or damaged by noxious chemicals such as pollutants in the environment, cumulative sun damage or even products that are deliberately applied to the skin for their anti-ageing effects, such as retinoids. Using a cleanser will not only remove all the grime we come into contact with as we're going about our daily business, from home to work to gym to bar. It also eliminates the micro-organisms with which we share our world and potentially improves the barrier function of the skin. This will give the natural glow of your skin the chance to really shine through.
Cleansing – and soap in particular – has a very long pedigree in human history. Cleansing was documented in the Ebers Papyrus, written in Ancient Egypt in around 1550 BC. The Egyptians wore heavy face make-up and used cleansing bars made from animal fat and perfume. In this day and age, we are spoilt for choice. We tend to take more care with the cleaning and maintenance of our face than we do the rest of our body, and as such, cleansing technology has developed to keep up with this. There is a huge range of cleansing products on the market. Facial cleansers include bar soaps, foaming and non-foaming cleansers, cleansing milk, toners, scrubs, micellar water and oils. The choice is huge and the best product for you very much depends on your skin type, personal preference and budget.
(Continues...)Excerpted from The Skincare Bible by Anjali Mahto. Copyright © 2018 Dr Anjali Mahto. Excerpted by permission of Penguin Random House.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Product details
- ASIN : B0785HLFY7
- Publisher : Penguin; 1st edition (April 5, 2018)
- Publication date : April 5, 2018
- Language : English
- File size : 1944 KB
- Text-to-Speech : Enabled
- Screen Reader : Supported
- Enhanced typesetting : Enabled
- X-Ray : Enabled
- Word Wise : Enabled
- Print length : 283 pages
- Best Sellers Rank: #387,330 in Kindle Store (See Top 100 in Kindle Store)
- #19 in Dermatology (Kindle Store)
- #47 in Skin Ailments (Kindle Store)
- #116 in Dermatology (Books)
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Customers find the book provides good information about skin and skincare. They find it informative and helpful for both trained and untrained individuals. The book is described as a great value for money and worth the wait. Readers appreciate the clear, easy-to-follow writing style and aesthetic value.
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Customers find the book provides useful information about skin types and protocols. They say it's educational and helpful for beginners, especially regarding acne. The book sources knowledge from research and is a great tool for anyone interested in these areas.
"Best book on skincare with good reccomendations" Read more
"...It is very well laid out and easy to read while providing very good information, some of which I had never encountered before...." Read more
"...Information on how the skin works, the science of skincare, and which products best support different skin types/conditions. Great read!" Read more
"...game for a while so a lot of this I new but this definitely helpful to beginners and I would buy this for anyone who wants to take of there skin" Read more
Customers appreciate the book's value for money. They find it informative and helpful for learning about skincare and esthetics. The author is praised as knowledgeable and a great resource.
"Best book on skincare with good reccomendations" Read more
"this book is great! i’m almost done with school so i plan to use this as i study for my state boards. very lightweight and durable!" Read more
"Great find for anyone looking for a reputable voice on skincare...." Read more
"...However, the packaging was very well worth the wait as my book came how I expected it. Just perfect, no crease dents or wear and tear." Read more
Customers find the book easy to read and informative. They say it's written in plain language, making it clear to follow and go back through.
"...It is very well laid out and easy to read while providing very good information, some of which I had never encountered before...." Read more
"...the fact that a doctor wrote something incredibly knowledgeable, user friendly, and PERSONAL...." Read more
"...book into chapters based on skin concerns, so it's very easy to go back through your reading and check in on current skin concerns you might have...." Read more
"Very easy read and very informative. I’ll never not wear sunscreen again!" Read more
Customers find the book visually appealing and useful for master estheticians and beginners. They say it's a great resource for learning more about products.
"It's great for a bigginer esthetician or if you just wanna learn more about product ingredients and skin, but that's about it...." Read more
"Aesthetically pleasing to my clients, most seem to grab this book over than my skin magazines while waiting...." Read more
"An amazing book if you wanna get to know skincare & esthetics without the schooling LOL or understand us esthetician’s in a book summary 💗 breaks..." Read more
"A must have for skincare fanatics and esthetics students or professionals...." Read more
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- Reviewed in the United States on July 24, 2024Best book on skincare with good reccomendations
- Reviewed in the United States on June 21, 2024this book is great! i’m almost done with school so i plan to use this as i study for my state boards. very lightweight and durable!
- Reviewed in the United States on February 23, 2024I purchased this in a pinch when a different book I ordered for a gift was failed to be delivered (not by Amazon). I didn't have high expectations but I actually ended up reading a lot of it before gifting it to my teenaged niece. It is very well laid out and easy to read while providing very good information, some of which I had never encountered before. This book actually helped me figure out something about my own skin! 100% recommended!
- Reviewed in the United States on October 6, 2023Great find for anyone looking for a reputable voice on skincare. Written by a Dermatologist with acne prone skin, this book is perfect for estheticians and skincare nerds alike!
Information on how the skin works, the science of skincare, and which products best support different skin types/conditions. Great read!
- Reviewed in the United States on December 29, 2024Past esthetic students encouraged to invest in this book. I’m glad I did.
- Reviewed in the United States on March 19, 2023Great book, 4 stars because it took 2 weeks to get to me with no way to cancel order. However, the packaging was very well worth the wait as my book came how I expected it. Just perfect, no crease dents or wear and tear.
- Reviewed in the United States on March 6, 2024If your absolutely new to skin care I would recommend this book. I’ve been in the skin care game for a while so a lot of this I new but this definitely helpful to beginners and I would buy this for anyone who wants to take of there skin
- Reviewed in the United States on December 9, 2023This book is worth every penny! So educational and has helped me so much in esthetician school! Highly highly recommend if you want to learn more or are struggling with your skin!
Top reviews from other countries
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MarianaReviewed in Brazil on August 14, 2024
5.0 out of 5 stars Completo
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- AgnesReviewed in the United Kingdom on August 24, 2024
5.0 out of 5 stars Very informative book
Bought this book for my friend’s birthday. She’s a skin therapy specialist so she loves having these kind of books to read. Great read for anybody who wants to know more about skin and what goes into having a great skin overall. Easy read too.
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Hiba BzReviewed in Germany on June 11, 2024
5.0 out of 5 stars Ein perfekter Einstieg in die Hautpflege!
Das Buch ist äußerst informativ und leicht zu verstehen. Als Skincare-Anfängerin hat es mir sehr geholfen, eine bessere Hautpflegeroutine zu entwickeln. Die Anleitungen sind klar und gut strukturiert, sodass ich die Tipps problemlos in meinen Alltag integrieren konnte. Absolut empfehlenswert für alle, die ihre Hautpflege verbessern möchten.
Hiba Bz
Reviewed in Germany on June 11, 2024
Images in this review - AngelReviewed in India on November 4, 2020
5.0 out of 5 stars Worth the purchase
Am glad I bought this book..
Am a person who has acne prone oily skin so reading this book gave the idea of what I need to do for my skin... What I need to look in a product..
How and what product I need to choose for my skin..
I started a skin care routine... I am waiting to see a good result..
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Lucia RuggieroReviewed in Italy on March 23, 2020
5.0 out of 5 stars Libro davvero interessante
Mi è piaciuto: ricco di informazioni e utili consigli da parte di una dermatologa e quindi accreditata per dare informazioni su prodotti, ingredienti, applicazioni migliori per rendere la skincare veramente attiva e utile. Molto consigliato e in un inglese semplice anche per chi non lo parla benissimo