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Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots Hardcover – Illustrated, January 23, 2018
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From chef James Syhabout of two–Michelin-star restaurant Commis, an Asian-American cookbook like no other—simple recipes for cooking home-style Thai and Lao dishes
James Syhabout’s hugely popular Hawker Fare restaurant in San Francisco is the product of his unique family history and diverse career experience. Born into two distinct but related Asian cultures—from his mother’s ancestral village in Isan, Thailand’s northeast region, and his father’s home in Pakse, Laos—he and his family landed in Oakland in 1981 in a community of other refugees from the Vietnam War. Syhabout at first turned away from the food of his heritage to work in Europe and become a classically trained chef.
After the success of Commis, his fine dining restaurant and the only Michelin-starred eatery in Oakland, Syhabout realized something was missing—and that something was Hawker Fare, and cooking the food of his childhood. The Hawker Fare cookbook immortalizes these widely beloved dishes, which are inspired by the open-air “hawker” markets of Thailand and Laos as well as the fine-dining sensibilities of James’s career beginnings. Each chapter opens with stories from Syhabout’s roving career, starting with his mother’s work as a line cook in Oakland, and moving into the turning point of his culinary life, including his travels as an adult in his parents’ homelands.
From building a pantry with sauces and oils, to making staples like sticky rice and padaek, to Syhabout’s recipe for instant ramen noodles with poached egg, Hawker Fare explores the many dimensions of this singular chef’s cooking and ethos on ingredients, family, and eating well. This cookbook offers a new definition of what it means to be making food in America, in the full and vibrant colors of Thailand, Laos, and California.
- Print length368 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherAnthony Bourdain/Ecco
- Publication dateJanuary 23, 2018
- Dimensions7.38 x 1.15 x 9.12 inches
- ISBN-100062656090
- ISBN-13978-0062656094
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Editorial Reviews
Review
“[An] outstanding debut...Mouthwatering...This is an eye-opening guide to a little-known cuisine.” — Publishers Weekly (starred review)
From the Back Cover
Easy & essential Isan Thai & Lao recipes from a refugee chef
James Syhabout’s hugely popular Hawker Fare restaurant in San Francisco is the product of his unique family history, his diverse career experience, and the food of his childhood. Hawker Fare immortalizes the dishes of this celebrated restaurant, which are inspired by the open-air “hawker” markets of Thailand and Laos as well as the fine-dining sensibilities of Syhabout’s career beginnings. The book starts with stories from his roving career as a classically trained chef, as well as his travels as an adult in his parents’ homelands—his mother’s ancestral village in Isan, Thailand’s northeast region, and his father’s native country of Laos.
From building a pantry with sauces and oils to making staples like sticky rice and padaek, to new takes like Syhabout’s recipe for instant ramen noodles with poached egg, Hawker Fare explores the many dimensions of this singular chef’s cooking and ethos on ingredients, family, and eating well. This cookbook offers a new definition of what it means to be making food in America, in the full and vibrant colors of Thailand, Laos, and California.
About the Author
James Syhabout was born in northeast Thailand and grew up in Oakland. He graduated from the California Culinary Academy in 1999 and became chef de cuisine at Manresa with David Kinch. Along the way he worked in some of the best kitchens in the world, including at The Fat Duck and Daniel Patterson’s Coi, and spent a season at El Bulli. In 2009 he opened his first restaurant, Oakland’s Commis, which holds two Michelin stars. He opened Hawker Fare in Oakland in 2011 and in San Francisco in 2015. He’s also co-owner of Old Kan Beer and Co. and the founder of Hawking Bird, both in Oakland.
John Birdsall is a food writer and ex–restaurant cook who lives in Oakland. He’s received two James Beard Awards for food and culture writing, and is currently working on a new biography of James Beard.
Product details
- Publisher : Anthony Bourdain/Ecco; Illustrated edition (January 23, 2018)
- Language : English
- Hardcover : 368 pages
- ISBN-10 : 0062656090
- ISBN-13 : 978-0062656094
- Item Weight : 2.48 pounds
- Dimensions : 7.38 x 1.15 x 9.12 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #231,488 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #30 in Thai Cooking, Food & Wine
- #47 in Southeast Asian Cooking, Food & Wine
- #97 in Southeast Asia Travel Guides
- Customer Reviews:
About the author

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Learn more how customers reviews work on AmazonCustomers say
Customers find the recipes in this book outstanding and authentic. They appreciate the detailed instructions and brand recommendations for regional food. The book is described as delightful, informative, and well-written. Readers also appreciate the vibrant pictures and colorful layout.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
Customers find the recipes in the book outstanding. They appreciate the detailed instructions for authentic regional food, as well as descriptions of ingredients and brands that work best. The recipes are crafted to the cook's taste and are home-style food from Southeast Asia. Readers describe the book as a memoir and recipe book, combining memories of family meals while growing up.
"...The recipes are fine. They will deliver a facsimile of what Lao/Isan food is. The pictures are nice like all the cookbooks out there...." Read more
"...Overall the recipes are good guides to developing authentic Lao dishes and I would recommend to someone unfamiliar with the cuisine." Read more
"...It is very personal and well written. The instructions for authentic regional food is absolutely great." Read more
"...The recipes are just what I was looking for. Home style food from Southeast Asia...." Read more
Customers enjoy the book's readability. They find the recipes delicious and delightful, and they like reading the stories. The first 100 pages are a memoir, and the cookbook works as advertised.
"This book is more than just a cookbook. The first 100 pages is a memoir...." Read more
"I like reading the stories, interesting reading. The recipes are just what I was looking for. Home style food from Southeast Asia...." Read more
"...The recipes are delicious and delightful and are a must have if you are serious devotee of California Asian cuisine." Read more
"Absolutely love this book. Always wanted to cook Lao food but asking a Lao mom how much measurement for everything is nearly impossible...." Read more
Customers enjoy the vibrant and beautiful photography in the book. They find it colorful and well-organized, with interesting stories and background information.
"...Other cookbooks don't have purpose or soul. They are just pretty pictures with recipes. This book is a bit more than that...." Read more
"This is genuine Lao Isan Thai food and fantastic background. It is very personal and well written...." Read more
"...Tastes just like moms cooking. Easy to follow instructions and beautiful photography...." Read more
"...It's great looking, well laid out, fun to read book -just not one you'll likely cook more than a dish or two out of...." Read more
Customers find the book informative and enjoyable to read. They find the stories interesting.
"I like reading the stories, interesting reading. The recipes are just what I was looking for. Home style food from Southeast Asia...." Read more
"Very informative and enjoyable book! Excellent and authentic recipes, including the story of the chef behind them." Read more
"Well put together book, colorful and filled with interesting stuff." Read more
Customers find the book well-written, colorful, and interesting. They describe it as a great-looking, well-organized, and fun to read.
"...It is very personal and well written. The instructions for authentic regional food is absolutely great." Read more
"...It's great looking, well laid out, fun to read book -just not one you'll likely cook more than a dish or two out of...." Read more
"Well put together book, colorful and filled with interesting stuff." Read more
Top reviews from the United States
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- Reviewed in the United States on June 9, 2020This book is more than just a cookbook. The first 100 pages is a memoir. You get to know James and all the events and places that shape him and his food. This is why the title is "Hawker Fare : Stories and Recipes From a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots"
If you are an immigrant you may relate to his stories from living in poor neighborhoods trying to survive and trying to find your own identity in the new world. Like many immigrants he tried to distance himself from his own culture's food because of what he ate at home brings embarrassment initially. He's come to reconciliation after many years working in fine dining kitchens and being a successful Michelin starred chef.
The recipes are fine. They will deliver a facsimile of what Lao/Isan food is. The pictures are nice like all the cookbooks out there. Other cookbooks don't have purpose or soul. They are just pretty pictures with recipes. This book is a bit more than that. It gives you insight into the reason why James cooks to this day. It shows his love to his mother that worked hard to raise him and his family. It shows his desire to reconnect with his culture through food.
- Reviewed in the United States on February 18, 2018Being Lao, the story and recipes in this book are reminiscent of my childhood and upbringing. Like any recipie, it’s always crafted to you the cooks taste. For me it’s refreshing to see a Lao cook book because much of Lao cooking really doesn’t involve measuring ingredients but knowing how to balance flavors on taste. This cook book is handy if I don’t want to call up my mom for directions for a certain dish. Overall the recipes are good guides to developing authentic Lao dishes and I would recommend to someone unfamiliar with the cuisine.
- Reviewed in the United States on September 21, 2022This is genuine Lao Isan Thai food and fantastic background. It is very personal and well written. The instructions for authentic regional food is absolutely great.
- Reviewed in the United States on January 24, 2018I like reading the stories, interesting reading. The recipes are just what I was looking for. Home style food from Southeast Asia. I am a big fan of the noodles and soups, especially when I can cook once and have food for a couple of days. I crave those flavors and textures.
- Reviewed in the United States on April 8, 2018The book is divided into two parts, first a bio of the author then recipes. Throughout the book food and its relationship to the Lao culture is discussed. The recipes are accompanied by descriptions of the ingredients and which brands we find in our stores work best. I really loved this book! The cover is impervious to food spills.
- Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2020I lived in Oakland, CA, so his stories around his recipes speak to me. The recipes are delicious and delightful and are a must have if you are serious devotee of California Asian cuisine.
- Reviewed in the United States on February 23, 2019Absolutely love this book. Always wanted to cook Lao food but asking a Lao mom how much measurement for everything is nearly impossible. We’ve tried so many dishes from this book and everything has been really good! Tastes just like moms cooking. Easy to follow instructions and beautiful photography. If you grew up in the US and are used to very potent Asian flavors this is the book for you.
I skipped the stories because I just want to make food. First dish doesn’t actually start until 113 pages in.
- Reviewed in the United States on February 1, 2018I love this book. Having a number of connections with this part of the world helps I am sure. I have been to Laos twice,an Thailand twice. I know several refugee families for that area. Our kid spent a semester abroad there.
The extensive biographical part of this book says alot about what first generation Americans must go through -with feet in two very different worlds.
Some of the recipes are a challenge - not uncommon with foreign foods...but substitute of do without as the author and his Mom does.
For example a pepper wood substitute is available.
Google " Chilli wood, pepper wood Piper ribesioides Wall., Piper interruptum Opiz. ໄມ້ ສະຄານ mai sakahn, sakhan, sakharn, sakhahn, mai sakhaan" and you will find it.
Top reviews from other countries
- Pat V.Reviewed in Canada on December 21, 2022
5.0 out of 5 stars Authentic recipes
This is my bible for Lao recipes. Being Lao, I had my mom taste the meals I prepared from the recipes in this book and she approved them!
It is a book I use very often compared to my other dozen recipe books that accumulate dust.
The only critic I have is that many of the recipes are too salty so always taste before adding all of the salt/fish sauce content.
- frank j. kocisReviewed in Canada on November 13, 2018
5.0 out of 5 stars wonderful introduction into Isan/Thai/Lao food.
great story, great pix and so far every recipe I've attempted out of this book is fantastic. there are a few recipes calling for really obscure or hard-to-find ingredients but most of the recipes can be attempted by a quick trip to the local asian supermarket (assuming you have one). Bonus: recipes measurements are by weight instead of volume which is really helpful in attempting to recreate accurate flavours of dishes you've never had before. This book shows that sometimes a bowl and spoon create more of a sense of place than a line on a map.
- JDPBCReviewed in Canada on February 7, 2020
5.0 out of 5 stars Great mix of personal narrative and rrecipes
I've already tried several recipes for daily meals and for dinner parties. The cuisine is equal parts familiar and excitingly new.
- Rajmy SayavongReviewed in Canada on July 2, 2019
5.0 out of 5 stars Awesome book!
Fantastic and heartwarming! Being Lao, the stories described resonates personally.
- A.AReviewed in Canada on January 26, 2019
5.0 out of 5 stars Love love love !
A cook book with a deeper look into Laos.