Death & Taxes

In this world, nothing can be said to be certain except death, taxes, and (if we may be allowed to improvise here) our love for Ashley Christensen. From her flagship Poole's Diner to Chuck's Burgers to Joule Coffee & Table, the reigning chef of the Raleigh-Durham scene is unstoppable. The latest addition to her family, Death & Taxes (named for the two previous tenants of the historic building, a funeral home and a bank), is Christensen's most ambitious restaurant to date: a marble, leather, and dark-wood–clad Southern brasserie built for a memorable night out. The real celebration taking place here, however, is of wood-fired cooking. Most everything comes off the grill, from lamb sausage with pickled celery to roasted oysters with chili butter. Vegetables make up nearly half the menu, imbued with smoky flavor via the coals: There are embered beets with red-eye vinaigrette, a squash gratin with "embered" cream, and even an "ember-killed" salad (greens wilted by a warm country-ham dressing). Oh, we forgot one more thing that we can say with certainty: If it's a Christensen restaurant, the bartenders will know how to make a great cocktail. We'll have the Widow's Joy, a clean and simple white-port-and-tonic spritz.

PRO TIP: The two floors above, called Bridge Club, are event spaces operated by Christensen and co.   THE DETAILS: Dinner nightly, opening at 5 p.m.